Following our stay in the deep mountains of Demisaem, my family moved to our next destination: Byeonsan Natural Recreation Forest (변산 자연휴양림). We stayed at the “Forest House” named Wido-hang.
To be honest, as soon as I looked out the window, the memories of the fresh mountain air at Demisaem faded away. The view of the peaceful sea, the open horizon, and the small islands floating on the water was simply mesmerizing.
Here is my honest comparison between Demisaem and Byeonsan, and why I fell in love with this place despite some inconveniences.
1. The View vs. Facilities: An Honest Comparison
If you are looking for modern facilities and a charcoal BBQ party, Demisaem is the winner.
- Byeonsan’s Reality: The accommodations are a bit older than Demisaem. Also, unlike the mountain cabins, outdoor BBQ including charcoal is strictly prohibited here to protect the forest and the coast.
- The Verdict: However, the scenery makes up for everything. The moment I saw the calm ocean from the room, I didn’t care about the age of the building. It was a view that money can’t buy.

2. A Different Way to Enjoy: Sashimi and Local Liquor
Since we couldn’t have a BBQ, we decided to enjoy the local specialty: fresh seafood. We visited Gyeokpo Port Fish Market (격포항 수산시장) and bought fresh Ureok (Rockfish) and Nollaemi (Greenling) sashimi.
The highlight of the night was a local liquor I discovered by chance called “Graju (그라주).”
- Alcohol Content: 17%
- Taste: I am not usually a heavy drinker, but this was exceptionally smooth and delicious.
While the kids (ages 8, 5, and 3) weren’t very interested in the sea and were happy watching YouTube and eating rice inside, my wife and I had the best time. Sitting by the window, sipping smooth Graju with fresh sashimi while watching the winter ocean—it was pure happiness.
3. The Perfect Drive on Route 30
Another reason to visit here is the drive. The driving course along National Route 30 (30번 국도) offers stunning coastal views.
Originally, I planned to visit Naesosa Temple, a famous historic site nearby. However, the drive itself was so beautiful, and we wanted to spend more time enjoying the view from our accommodation, so we ran out of time. But I have no regrets. It just gives me a perfect excuse to come back.
4. Conclusion: I Will Definitely Return
It was a bit too cold for the children to play outside, but for adults who want to heal their minds, Byeonsan Natural Recreation Forest is a paradise.
I was completely captivated by the charm of the West Sea. I am already planning my next trip to visit Naesosa Temple and, of course, to see that ocean view again.

